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If I am running Ubuntu or one of its offshoots "live" from a USB flash stick, does the stick get written to, or are there only read operations?

How about if persistence is disabled?

RMMB
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1 Answers1

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https://help.ubuntu.com/community/LiveCD/Persistence

From the first line, it seems that the Live CD/USB is read only unless you add persistent file storage. That link should show you how to do so.